In the .357, you really want hollow or soft points to avoid the “sailing through” issue. In auto-loaders, there was constant debate about Truncated Cone vs Round Nose, but when black talons came out lots of folks started using them. I used to use the Speer 200gr “flying ashcan” hollowpoint in my .45 with good results, and semi-wadcutters with large meplats (Keith style) in my revolvers.

YMMV, and have a ball. I miss pin shooting a whole lot.

Not all clubs follow the same rules, so the rules themselves will have a lot to do with what you need to be successful. Some clubs put the pins 3 feet from the rear of the table, and the pins need a pretty good push to get then off the table. Others set them farther back.

It is a misconception to equate power factor with successful pin shooting, though, as it is only part of the equation. It’s not just the amount of energy delivered to the pin, but how that energy is expended when it hits the pin. For example, a hot .357 with a light and fast bullet will punch a hole through the pin, or even split the pin in half, but leave it on the table. A big heavy blunt bullet with lower velocity and the same power factor will send the pin flying, since it transfers its energy into moving the pin, rather than tearing up the wood. I’d load up the heaviest truncated cone or hollow point bullets you can find and do a little testing. Just barely enough energy to the pin, properly and accurately applied, will usually beat poorly placed shots from a more powerful gun. Although it’s a “Speed-Power-Accuracy” event, without good accuracy, the other two don’t matter……

…… Mr. C.

I’ll be trying the 9mm class this year at our local shoots with my carry gun, just for the practice………

I used a 96D as a bedside companion for years because to my trigger finger it felt just like shooting a 10-shot .40 S&W revolver with a good trigger job.